Feelin' Cool

What use is a fancy dual battery system in your car, if you don't have anything to plug into it? Enter the new ARB 47L fridge. Picked it up on Friday afternoon, along with the transit bag.

Badger approves.


We have had our eye on the ARB fridge for the last couple of months. Previously, we had been set on one of the 50L Waeco fridges, and almost bought one of them on a couple of occasions. They're cheaper, and since they're made out of plastic they won't rust or get dented. But earlier this year ARB bought out their brand new fridge, and it's been getting rave reviews ever since.

When we first went shopping a couple of months ago, we compared the Waeco to the ARB directly, to see if the extra cost of the ARB was worth it. We obviously believe it was. For us, there were a lot of little things that the ARB unit had that would make your life a lot easier, and result in a stronger, sturdier unit that will hopefully last us a lifetime. For us, the main advantages of the ARB were:

• The flush-mounted condensor panel inside. The actual "cool plate" inside the fridge is moulded into the interior walls. This means nothing can get behind it - so it's really easy to clean out. We had the devil's delight with Grant & Sam's fridge when we went up to Cooktown earlier in the year, after an errant avocado got loose early in the trip, and was pounded to mush and got everywhere - including behind the condensor panel. Luckily we had access to a tap and could simply wash the whole thing out. Which brings us to...
• An integrated drain bung in the base. I can't believe that every fridge doesn't have one of these. After all - every esky does! In the above example, once we washed everything out we needed to tip the fridge upside down to drain it - hardly beneficial to the fridge itself, especially since it had just been running, and we needed it to be running again very soon. Having the drain bung in the base will make cleaning it up a breeze.
• An easily-removed lid. You can remove the lid on the Waeco, but it's a pain in the butt. Couple that with the 3mm diameter hinge pins and thin retaining strap, and it's a recipe for disaster around kids. The ARB's hinged are very substantial - at least an inch in diameter if not more. And they're metal, so they shouldn't wear out. But the party trick is that if you crack the lid open, you can wiggle it side to side as you pull it forward, and is disconnects from it's hinges and comes away in your hand. VERY handy if you need to get into the fridge, but have limited space about it and can't open the lid up very far - like, for instance, if the fridge was in the back of a car.
  
• Heavy-duty lid. I've seen trucks parked on the Waeco's lid in their ads, but when I sat on it, it bowed in quite considerably. The ARB's doesn't move. Nuff said.
• Internal LED Light, reversable internal basket, recessed control panel (so it can't be accidentally knocked) on the front (where you can get at it easily if it's in the back of a car), strong steel handles front and back, low battery cut off, power-saving mode on the compressor...

You get the idea. It's not one or two big things where it was better than the Waeco, but just everywhere you looked, there was something that had been very well thought out that made you go "ahhh - that's handy!"". I'm sure if we had previously bought the Waeco, we'd be very happy with it. But I'm even happier now we've got this one!

After we unpacked it, we plugged it on on 240v to cool it down and test it out. It was dead silent as it ran, and dropped down from the ambient temp of around 28 degrees to 0 in about half an hour. I was pretty impressed with that!


It's definately bigger than I expected. I thought it would take up considerably less room than our big icebox, but it turns out that it's almost the same size. The fridge is narrower, but it's also longer and taller. Despite having a smaller internal capacity than the icebox, we should end up with more space inside, due to the fact that we won't need to carry any ice in there. Also, since we have the ability to cool things down, we can take cans of soft drink with us hot, and cool them down when we're camping, instead of needing to have everything cooled down before we leave.


With the fridge down to temp, we moved it out into the back of the car, and connected it to the 12v power. We then shut the car up and left it run over night. The next morning the fridge was still showing 4 degrees (what we had it set to), both batteries were still connected, and the voltage was showing just a smidge under 13v. Those last two tell me that the fridge used very little power at all overnight. Granted, we weren't opening it all the time to get drinks or food, and the car was parked in the shade in our carport, so the power usage will increase when the car is parked in the sun and we're continually letting the cold air out. But it's still a pretty good base line!

The only thing that I'm upset about is the transit bag. It sticks onto the fridge with self-adhesive velcro strips. Most of the strips stuck on fine, but some of them wouldn't stick. By the next morning, pretty much all the self-adhesive had lifted, and the bag wasn't secured onto the fridge any more.


It's only got worse since then. So I might need to call ARB and ask them what we can do about this. The bag section around the fridge itself isn't so bad - it stays in position pretty well just with the fridge holding it there, but the lid piece just falls off when the adhesive lets go. And given that I would think the spot it needs extra insulation the most is on the lid... The transit bag wasn't cheap, so I want to ensure that it's fixed.

If you're wondering about the transit bag, it's made out of canvas, but with a thin insulation layer underneath. So not only does it serve to protect the fridge from scratches and dents, but it also helps the fridge to work, and insulates it better. Hopefully this will result in a longer run time on our Aux battery!

Can't wait to try it out in a few weeks!!!

Pathfinder DBS - Fixing up my mistakes

After talking to some people, it became apparent that I was just being slack with my soldering job on the battery system :

Even I wasn't too happy with it at the time, but figured it might be good enough. However, there's no point going to all this trouble if we're going to leave a dodgy, unsafe join like that right in the heart of things. Better to fix it up, do it right, and never need to worry about it again.

That was as good as I could do with my 40W soldering iron - I just couldn't get enough heat into the huge wires. So yesterday I called into Jaycar, and picked up a new 80W unit.


That's it on top. It's a massive iron - the tip is around the same size as a pencil, with a huge slash-cut end. Plus (more importantly) it's got the power to back it up!

First order of business was to dismantle the back of the car again, and remove all the insulation tape from the previous join.


Surprisingly, it didn't look any better than it did the other day. Still pretty rough! Once it was all clean, it was time to hit it with the big iron and a bunch more solder. Unfortunately the biggest solder Jaycar stock is 1mm diameter stuff. So we used almost an entire container of it here!

From this:


To this:


Much nicer! You can see how the solder has all melted and flowed into the joint, instead of just clustering about on top.


You can also see how the exposed wire has all been tinned by the solder, and gone from the gold/copper colour of the bare wire to the dull silver of the tin in the solder. Not only will this make the joint nice and solid, it will server to protect it from corrosion should any moisture managed to get in through all the electrical tape.

That's how it should have been done from the start! The join is now super strong, and will last a lifetime.


Once everything had cooled back down, we re-wrapped both wires with at least 3 layers of electrical tape to re-insulate them. I couldn't use heat-shrink here, as I had no way of getting it over the wire. I experimented with a large piece of heatshrink wrapped around the wire a couple of times, zip-tied on and then heated, but it simply unfurled itself as it shrunk, and provided no benefit whatsoever. So electrical tape it is!


Once the individual wires were wrapped, we wrapped the entire join in black electrical tape, and added a couple of cable ties to give some mechanical support.


And I hope never to have to cut that all apart again!

While we had the back of the car apart, we decided to fix one of the shortcuts we'd taken previously. We have a volt-meter fitted into the back panel, with a 3-way switch to change it between MAIN - off - AUX. Previously we had only wired in the AUX connection to it, and the connection to the MAIN battery was put into the too-hard basket. But I really wanted to be able to monitor both batteries when the controller had disconnected the two (of course, when they're connected together, it doesn't matter which one you select - you get them both at once).

A little probing around the back of the car found a const 12v hot wire going into a control box of some sort (Relay maybe? If so, for what? Rear Wiper maybe?) on the opposite side of the car. Disconnecting the batteries, I cut that wire, and joined in a small-gauge wire and ran it across the back of the car under the carpet, twisted around another wire that ran the opposite way for my towbar connection. Once over to the driver's side of the car, it was an easy enough job to route it behind the control panel and joined it up to the switch.

So now I can switch the volt meter between the MAIN battery:


Off (to save power when I'm not looking at the meter, not that a meter will draw much power anyway) :


And the new AUX battery:


You can see here that the controller had isolated the MAIN from the AUX, which is why the readings are different. If I were to go out now and check, the controller will have both batteries connected, and the reading will be the same regardless of which position the switch is in. Happy with that!

Finishing off some of the other little jobs, I trimmed down the positive terminal cover on the battery. I could have just left it off altogether, but it's a good, cheap, effective safety measure to have it on. But with the new power connection squeezed onto the terminal, it was too tight a squeeze. 5 mins with a hacksaw blade and a file, and voila:


Just like a bought one!

The front panel is all in and connected:





And working well. Can you spot the potential problem, though?

Here's a hint.


The top of the MAIN fuse block is at about exactly the same level as the bottom of the inside of the bonnet - you can see in that shot that the front corner of the clear cover is ever so slightly above the level of the guard panel lip just past it. The wires are fine - they've got extra insulation zip-tied onto them wherever they touch metal, and just squish down. But that hard-plastic cover might be a problem.

It's not currently being used for anything - it's just there for future expansion should I want to run any accessories off the MAIN or AUX batteries under the bonnet (think spotlights, etc). So if it breaks after 6 months, we'll re-think the design and fix it then. For now though, I'm happy enough just to leave it be and see how it goes. It might be fine - I don't know.

So finally, it's all getting close to being done.




Only a few more tidy up things to do - trim the inner guard lining and re-fit it to the rear passenger side, trim the front inner guard linings that we removed when we fitted the bar and put them back on. Wrap some of the exposed cable in split-tubing and zip-tie it all securely out of the way (both in the engine bay, as well as under the dash inside). And some other misc bits and pieces. But we'll get to them over the next few weeks!

Oh, and Jess is threatening to go down this weekend and buy the fridge we want, now that the electrics are all done! :)

Pathfinder DBS - Now We're Getting Somewhere!

It's alive...

Before we get to that though, let's look back at where we left off last episode. I'd just blown copious amounts of money on this:


My new NutSert tool. It's great. It takes a little while to master, and the smaller nutserts are more difficult than the bigger ones, but it's already been very handy, and I can just see it being useful for many many things in the future.

We also had the new false-floor for the cubby-hole off being trimmed:


It came out pretty good! The contact adhesive stuck a lot better this time, but where the vinyl was folded over at the back has started to lift. Not sure what's caused it not to hold there properly, but because it's hidden behind the panel I'm not really too concerned.

The nutsert tool let me cut the mounting brackets for the panel out of the aluminium angle that I'd previously purchased for just such a task, instead of using the too-heavy steel angle.





The sides of the bracket were simply pop-rivited through the plastic, with washerrs placed on the other side to spread the load a bit. You can also see my attempted fancy off-set drilling of the rivets to ensure that the load was spread evenly across the plastic, instead of being concentrated in one vertical line.


...and that's basically how the nutserts work. They are squished down by the nutsert tool like that, and attach themselves quite strongly to the bracket. The most important thing (which I'd found out after it happened to me) was to use a file and eat out a couple of keyways around the hole for the nutsert. That gives the nutsert itself something to grip into as you rivet it in, so that when you go to undo a bolt from the nutsert it can grip against the keyway instead of simply rotating in the hole with the bolt as you turn it. I'd made the mistake with one of the small 3mm nutserts, and it was hard enough to fix it then. I'd hate to see how difficult it would be to remove one of the large 6mm ones.


The upshot of all that mess was that the rear panel was basically complete and ready to be mounted.


I decided to use M6 bolts with the internal allen-key socket in the head, because they also have a nice knurled exterior that makes them easy to remove without tools if we ever need to get in behind the panel whilst we're away from home. Plus, they look good. Of course, I only had 2 of the nice stainless washers, so will need to pick up some more at some stage to finish the job nicely.


Over the weekend I'd finished wiring up the rear panel, and it was now a nice spaghetti mess! In reality, it's actually laid out pretty well and is very easy to trace, so that's another thing that should pay dividends if we ever need to troubleshoot. The hardest part of this wiring was the ganging-together of the multiple ground wires. I didn't want to have 500 ground wires all terminating back onto the chassis of the vehicle - I thought I could do it a little nicer than that. I ended up using a number of the huge screw-down terminal blocks to slowly join the various grounds together, terminating in the single 6B&S ground wire. Not the nicest thing you've ever seen, but it works pretty well and again, is easy to troubleshoot.

The other fly lead you see in the above shot - the one terminating in the orphaned screw-down terminal connector - is the attachment to the volt-meter for the MAIN battery. This way I can measure both batteries with the one volt meter. It won't give me a complete picture of the battery state (for that you need both a volt meter and an ammeter), but it's better than flying completely blind. If I find later down the track that I really do want the ammeter, it should be relatively easy to incorporate one.

That basically completed the rear power control panel. I'd alerady finished wiring up the front control panel over the weekend. So all that was left was basically to string them all together into a working system!

I originally had planned on running the wiring underneath the car from the front to the back. Tim from Traxide had sent me some split-tubing and rubber-saddles for just that purpose. However, after having a good look under the car this afternoon, I couldn't see any good way of doing that. The passsenger side was too tightly-packed, and to run it down there I'd need to bring it over the "chassis rail" in a couple of spots - obviously a very weak point in my proposed design as it would potentially snag on anything offroad. The driver's side of the car is pretty much taken up completely with the ehxaust plumbing, and I didn't want to have the wiring anywhere near that heat.

So after a lot of umming and ahhing, we started to dismantle the inside of the car, and pull up the carpet to have a look. And what do you know - it's as if Mr Nissan wanted us to do it that way! Down each side of the car, where the floorpan meets the door sills, there's a depressed channel in the floor with the existing wiring loom in it, complete with a plastic "roof" over it! And there's heaps of room in there to boot! Awesome!

Within half an hour Jess and I had poken a hole through the firewall (we've got so much stuff going through that one grommet - UHF aerials, power leads, switch leads, etc - there must be hardly any room left in there!) and pulled the cable through to the rear of the car. Perfect!

We came straight up the driver's side, since that's where the MAIN battery is, where our front panel will be, and where the rear panel will be in the cubby-hole! The original plan (when going underneath) was to come up the passenger side, since that's the side that the AUX battery is on, but this worked out much simpler.


Before you know it, we had the wiring up into the cargo area where the rear panel is to go. After thinking about a couple of ways to do it, we decided to simply continue the main wiring around the back of the car and onto the passenger side to connect to the battery, and simply T-join the rear panel off it. Easy-peasy you say! Well, 6B&S wire makes it hard. Before embarking on this project I had just assumed that I could either simply solder my joins, or use big screw-down terminal blocks. However I can't find any screw-down blocks big enough to take more than none of the 6B&S wires at a time. Hindsight says I should have checked a 240V shop, and maybe they would have something, but I boxed on regardless.

First step was, as shown above, to remove a section of the insulation from each cable, and also remove the rubber sheath over them both.


Using a trick that I'd picked up from the MySwag forum's resident 12V guru, Symon, I joined the cable like so:


The new cable passes through the middle of the strands of the existing cable, then itself splits in two and is wrapped around the original cable in both directions from the join. This gives the join a lot of mechanical strength right away, without relying on solder or anything else to hold the join together.

I proceeded to do what can only be referred to as the WORST soldering job ever on the join:



That's pretty poxy. My new iron just isn't powerful enough to get enough heat into the join to make it decent. Still, it doesn't really need to be super-strong, just enough to hold the ends of the twisted wire toegether so it doesn't come undone. Both joins were then wrapped heavily in electrical tape to proect the joins and insulate them.


The whole lot was then wrapped in black electrical tape to give it some extra strength and protection, and then it was all stuffed down into the car and the panels replaced.


The rear control panel was connected to the new power leads, and bolted into position.

We then had the problem of how to get the wire across the car to the passenger side. We thought about simply laying it under the carpet, but there's not much in the way of sound deadening under the carpet, so the cable would be quite a visible bump - which would result in the cable getting snagged and damaged. Then we stumbed on the solution.

The rear section of the cargo area - the lower lip where the tailgate latch is. That's actually a hollow section - reinforced for strength across the back of the car. And a perfect conduit for our cable! So from inside that driver's side wing area, we were able to slowly route the cable behind the taillight and across the back of the car in this internal section of the body. There were a couple of gotcha's - the tailgate latch for instance is reinforced down through this section. But it doesn't completely block it - you can (if you hold your mouth right) route the cable behind it. And past the latch, there's a tube welded through the centre of this of this section that allows you to access the spare tyre winch - that was tricky to get around. But once you've done it, the cable it nice and tighly secured inside a section of the body that no one was ever meant to get access to, so it's unlikely that the cable will ever be damaged in there! Just make sure you've got someone with small hands to help you.

Once the cable was out the other side into the wing area, it was a simple job to push it out through a rubber grommet to the outside of the car, cut it to length, crimp on an Anderson plug connector and hook it up to the AUX battery.


And there you have it - the neon switches light up when they're turned on! The volt meter springs up to 13V when the switch is flicked over to the AUX battery, so it's working perfectly!

And that's as far as we've got so far. The system's not integrated yet - the front panel, although all wired up...




...is still not in the car - that's a job for later this week. And I still need to find a const 12V supply at the back of the car (or bite the bullet and run a new wire straight from the MAIN battery all the way up to the rear panel) to wire up to the volt meter for the MAIN battery condition. But other than that, the whole back of the car is basically finished. We've decided in the interests of getting the job done we're not going to worry about the added complexity of wiring in the front and rear Anderson plugs at this point. We don't need them currently, and the wiring becomes a LOT simplier without them. Because it's dragged on so long, we're just wanting to get it finished ASAP now, and then we can revisit it later to add these fancier touches.


So hopefully, by the end of this week, we'll have the front panel mounted and the entire system hooked up! Woo-hoo! I still need to trim the rear inner guard lining to suit the carrier and re-attach it to the car, but I want to respray that flare as well since it copped some damage a few months ago, so that might take a bit longer to get done. But the main parts of the job will be done, and it'll just be miscelaneous tidying up from there!

Yup - I'm excited!

Pathfinder - Dual Battery continued

Not much more to add to this yet, I'm afraid. But I'll post it up anyway.

We had a non-car-related weekend this one just gone, involving me discovering that I really missed my calling as an arborist, as well as 4 trips to the dump with Trev's ute on Sunday afternoon. On the upside, the yard's now looking habitable. I'll take some photos when I'm home at a reasonable hour.

Onto the car!

I received a surprise package from Traxide on Monday with all the miscellaneous bobs and bits that I wanted to complete the project. A big thanks to Tim for sending it out - I really appreciate it. I can't recommend them enough - if the controller works even half as well as their customer service and support (and everyone I've spoken to tells me it's even better than that), then I'll be a happy chappy indeed! So thanks again to Tim and Traxide! And the arrival of the gear has spurred me on to finish it all off.

Last night I removed the driver's side panels from the boot, so I could investigate how to mount the control panel into it. I want it mounted reasonably solid (so that pushing in/pulling out the cig lighter sockets doesn't dislodge it), but also easily removable if I need to get in behind there whilst we're away from home.

My original idea was to pop-rivet some aluminium angle to the insides of the cubby-hole, then somehow have a captive nut on the back-side of the angle. That would let me bolt through the panel into the captive nut, and be a nice sturdy mounting. But that plan started to fall apart when I needed to think about how I was going to mount the captive nut. I can't weld ali at home, and anyway, the bolts I would want to use would be pretty small - I didn't want 10mm bolts holding in a panel that weighs maybe 500g! The other thought was to acquire a nutsert tool that would let me put a nutsert into the ali, and then bolt into that. That was a great plan, until I discovered how rare nutsert tools are in this country, and how expensive they are!

So it was back to the drawing board. Competing thoughts of "do it right, do it once" vs "make do with the materials you have" knocking around in my brain led me to this:

That's the 25x25x3mm angle steel that I used in the construction of the carrier cradle (specifically, the wings and the front guard). It's wayyyy overkill for this application, but it's what I had, and it's what I can weld to. So I measured the area involved, cut these three pieces to suit, and cleaned them up with the hand file.

Then looked at it for about an hour, and decided that I didn't like the idea at all. It's way too heavy. Granted, all it's got to do is hold the panel there, but it means that instead of pop-riveting it on, I'll need to bolt through to get a better purchase. And then I'll need some sort of backing plate to secure the weight of it. And then drilling the holes in the right place is going to be a pain. And how am I going to go welding a small nut to the back side of that without melting it? And and and...

So I gave that away for the night, and focussed on something else.

In the Pathfinder inside the cubby hole in the cargo area is a little flip-up lid that gives access to a secret storage box down in the wing area. My original plan was simply to drill a couple of big holes in this to feed the wiring through from underneath the car up onto the panel. But the box looked so good, and was in perfect condition, and I didn't want to wreck it. Silly, I know. I'll never use it for anything else, and I'll never put it back in this car, but it just didn't seem right to wreck it for no good reason.

SO - out with the cardboard and tape measure.


A bit of measuring, drawing, tracing and cutting later, and we've got a piece of MDF that's an exact match for the top of the little box:


Indeed - after measuring the cubby hole a couple of dozen times and trying to get the angles right, I slapped myself on the head, inverted the box onto the MDF sheet and just traced around it. Funny how the simply solutions aren't always the most obvious (to me at least).


A perfect fit! It's a bit slack around the edges to give some clearance for the trimming. The slot in the rear of it will be hidden behind the panel, and will be where the main power cable feeds up through from under the car. The new floor was then shot straight into the Trim Shop (dining room table) to be covered with another piece cut off the same sheet of vinyl used for the panel. And that's where it is still, underneath a couple of bricks while the contact adhesive dries.

By now it was getting pretty late, so I headed in to work on some wiring. I had done a bit of work on the rear panel the previous day, but needed some different crimp connectors (that I thought I had in my stash, but didn't), so gave that a miss and started on wiring the front panel. I decided to start on something difficult, and go from there since things would only get easier. So I hooked in to connecting up one of the fuse/distribution blocks.

I'd got this idea from a fellow on the myswag forum, who did the same to a fuse block in his camper to turn it into a distribution block as well. It took a while to get enough heat into the cable to get good solder joins, but I think it came out pretty well:


The other fellow had left his just like that, but I was planning on looping 4 small cable ties around each of the lugs and the wire to provide some additional mechanical support. It might not have been necessary, but if some thing's worth doing, it's worth overdoing to excess.


So it was done, but I didn't like it. Cue another hour sitting, looking at it, thinking about it, turning it upside down, poking it, etc. I didn't like trusting the adhesion of the solder in this configuration. And the cable ties didn't provide as much support as I had hoped they would - they tended to ride up and end up loose on just the cable, instead of tight around the cable and lug. But my biggest concern is that there was no fuse between this (it IS the fuse block, after all) and the battery. And I had a long piece of bared, high-current-capable wire questionably attached to something that was a mere couple of mm above a nice solid lump of raw aluminium that was bolted to the body of the car.

Can you see where I'm going with this? :)

If that were to let go over some corrugations, there's a good chance that some part of that hot wire could touch onto some grounded piece of the car/panel, and weld itself there whilst exploding my battery. Not fun. I thought about trying to cable tie some insulation around it, or glue some rubber matting under it, but they were all patches to work around the inadequacy of the design. With a good design to start with, you don't need to make excuses like that.

Eventually it got the better of me, so I un-soldered it all (a much more difficult job than soldering it up originally), and only managed to melt a little bit of the plastic lid of the fuse holder when I slipped once with the hot iron.

And I proceeded to set it up the way I should have in the first place, with individual tails crimped on:


Much nicer, and much safer. If any of these disconnect, they won't damage anything due to the insulation over the crimp lugs. And the failure of one won't take out the whole lot. And it's much more suited to vibrations and pretty much everything else. You can see the extra rubber insulation that I've cable-tied to the wires as they pass over the edge of the aluminium panel, just to provide a bit extra insulation where it might rub.

But then I needed to gang together 4 individual tails. And that's what had stopped me going down this route earlier - I just couldn't think of a simple, elegant way to do that that wasn't over-engineered. Fortunately, the answer was right in front of me:


These big 6B&S screw-down connector blocks that came in the Traxide kit are the perfect size to accept 4 smaller wires all twisted together. You can see there how they all disappear into the one end, and a big 6B&S cable comes out the other end. And best of all, because it's nice and light, it doesn't need to be supported against/bolted to the panel at all - it just sits there nicely of it's own accord. All that took me till about 12:30am, so I'm a little suppressed today - happy to just hide in my office and do my work and not bother anyone.

That's one side done now - I'll do the other fuse block tonight and work towards getting the front panel all ready to bolt into the car. I still haven't been able to identify a good spot to mount the front Anderson plug, but I'll find somewhere. I originally wanted it outside the car, but it might end up being inside the engine bay. That's probably better, since it won't be switched and I don't want some punk kid to monkey with it while the car's parked in a shopping centre - better to keep it all under cover and not on display.

Actually - I've just had a cracking idea for a mounting spot for the front Anderson connector - I'll have to remember to have a look tonight and see if it'll fit...

The new cubby-hole floor will be done by tonight too, so I'll be able to attach that onto the floor of the cubby-hole and pop-rivet it in (or I might bolt it, you never know - I'm unpredictable like that - it's crazy sometimes). Once that's in, I can turn my attention to mounting the panel into the cubby-hole and finish off it's wiring.

Because I popped out today and bought the crimp-on connectors that I thought I had but didn't but needed.

And I bought the damn nutsert gun.

Thanks!
Matto :)